My journey to Bakewell was by far the longest of all the five towns I have covered to date and not because it’s far from my Matlock base – but because I decided to walk!
The eight miles or so were a delight – onto the White Peak Loop hugging the River Derwent, through Rowsley, past Haddon Hall and, eventually, into Bakewell.
Walking rather than driving also afforded me a different route into a town I know pretty well – although not nearly as well as I thought.
Upon reaching Agriculture Way, with the town in my sights, I diverted off Haddon Road and onto a small, narrow footpath.
A walk by the river at Bakewell is always stunning in the spring Photo: Gary Wallis With the meandering river – so synonymous with Bakewell – to the right of me and allotments and houses to my left, it was a peaceful and pretty way to end my amble from Matlock and, sure enough, the expansive park and grounds soon opened up in front of me as I found myself once more on familiar ground.
Walking past the park and its multitude of benches, one of which is dedicated to my wife’s grandad who loved it here, the distinctive smell of this Peak District town filled the air – fish and chips!
We weren’t even quite at midday, yet I counted at least half a dozen, if not more, people tucking into them. When in Rome and all that…
As ever, small children pointed excitedly at the myriad stunning rainbow trout swimming in the crystal-clear river.
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It’s a sight I have seen many times and something I have enjoyed doing myself over the years but, as I have found throughout this series, such simple yet joyous acts seem to take on more profoundness when your only reason for being there is to simply observe the sights and sounds of the town.
It was also strange seeing ‘Lovelock Bridge’ devoid of all its locks for the first time, although a comfort knowing they have all found a new home just a couple of miles down the road at Thornbridge Hall.
Taking more time than usual to take in my surroundings as I wandered through the town centre, I noticed a common theme that has threaded itself throughout this series so far – the number of independent stores and their notable pride in their location.
I passed Bakewell Cheese Shop (as seen on TV the sign tells me) and, later, the Derbyshire Emporium, while places like The Georgian House Sweet Shop also add so much to Bakewell’s undeniable charm.
The Old Market Hall, on Bridge Street, is a building that has always intrigued me and, given it is the official Peak District National Park Visitor Centre, it’s astonishing really that I have never stepped foot inside.
And what a sight it was. A place brimming with local pride. After a brief browse around the ground floor and its multitude of Derbyshire and Peak District-themed goodies, I headed upstairs onto the mezzanine floor.
This area of the building – which dates back to the 17th century and retains its distinctive wooded beams – promises ‘a visual celebration of the Peak District National Park’ and it certainly delivers.
I also noted on my way back downstairs a wicker basket containing old products to purchase at a knockdown price – including a February 2012 edition of Derbyshire Life for 50p; what a bargain!
Energised by this new experience of Bakewell, I made the short walk to the Royal British Legion Garden of Remembrance to finally take the weight off my feet.
I hadn’t realised just how lovely, and of course poignant, it is here. So close to the hustle and bustle of the town but providing that little bit of quiet and sanctuary.
After a brief rest I was back on my feet and the next hour would define my Bakewell visit.
In the blink of an eye I had gone from the comforts of a part of the town I knew intimately, to a part I didn’t know at all.
Gone were the familiar sights of the roundabout, of The Derbyshire Emporium; Bakewell Cookshop; the Bakewell Tart Shop and Coffee House; the delightful Hebden Court and the likes and into my line of vision came entirely new places.
On my right as I ascended the steepish road I saw Kings Court – an amalgamation of local businesses, eateries, properties and more and all looking as pretty as a picture. How had I not seen this place before?
This wasn’t an end to the visual feast. The buildings here were charming and characterful. It was as if I had stepped out of a town and into the main thoroughfare of a quaint, quintessentially English village.
The architecture here is simply glorious. I came across a long building which to me had all the hallmarks of having once been almshouses and on approaching the plaque in front of the building, my instincts proved correct.
Further up the hill I reached the grounds of the impressive All Saints Parish Church. How many times, I wondered, had I seen this spire over the years while approaching the town, yet this was the first time I had ever seen the rest of the church and its grounds.
It’s interesting how the church adorns so many beautiful pictures you see of Bakewell and it feels like such an integral part to the rich tapestry of the town.
Yet for all its prominence, there’s a real feel of peace here and its elevated position makes you feel removed from the hive of activity taking place in Bakewell below you.
As I made my way to the entrance, I remembered how inspiring I had found my visit to Ashbourne’s St Oswald’s Church in the very first instalment of this year-long discovery of Derbyshire’s towns.
All Saints looks wonderful but doesn’t have quite the same ‘wow factor’ as St Oswald’s visually in my opinion, but this isn’t a beauty contest and there are elements here which will fascinate and inspire in equal measure.
A similar but smaller stone structure grabbed my attention as I headed inside, its description reads: ‘This gravestone was discovered early in 1959 during excavations behind the Church Room. The tooling and general design are consistent with 12th century workmanship, and headstones of this period are not common.’
It seems lovely to me that people are welcome to browse an unattended church such as this and take in so much history and culture and is something we shouldn’t take for granted.
This was one of the most welcoming and interesting churches I’ve been in and well worth a visit. There’s even the opportunity to make a voluntary donation via card if you don’t have any cash on you.
Higher still, on Cunningham Place, I discovered a place I have heard so much about but have never visited, which is borderline sacrilegious given my interest in the Tudor period.
I’m talking about Bakewell Old House Museum, based in a Tudor building. This wasn’t the day for going for a proper look round, but I will certainly be back.
Nevertheless, there was still much to marvel at on the outside of this 500-year-old building and I took a minute to look down the hill at the nearby church and then further down into the town below, set against wonderful countryside, and wondered whether someone from 500 years ago would instantly recognise this landscape. I concluded that they probably would.
As I began my descent down North Church Street, the opposite side of the church than the street I had walked up, I was met with a wonderful array of stone cottages as the church bells chimed for 1pm.
Hearing them so close up was rousing and I wished it was a little later, or indeed earlier, in the day so that I could have witnessed more than the solitary chime!
As I reached the bottom I was immediately transported back into the Bakewell I know. In fact, I was now the other side of the Rutland Arms. In effect, I had done a sort of very narrow horseshoe up and back down again and in that period had discovered so much more of the town.
Enthused by having ticked off a number of Bakewell ‘firsts’ I then did something else I have never done before – actually gone inside the Rutland Arms.
I was immediately taken with the worn nature of the stone steps at the entrance, worn down through centuries of welcoming guests – some highly notable.
The interior was certainly not run down, and I felt surprised (although I really shouldn’t have been) by how large the place actually is.
As I left, having just enough time to observe how smart and elegant nearby Rutland Terrace looked in the sun, I collected my thoughts.
Of all the towns covered in this series so far, Bakewell is, to date, the one I’m most familiar with.
Yet discovering new parts of this wonderful town made my trip, in a funny way, one of the most fulfilling so far.
As was the case earlier in the year with Belper, the next time I find myself in Bakewell, I’ll be doing so with a completely new perspective.
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