An alternative look at the town of Belper in Derbyshire

When I visited Ashbourne for last month’s Editor’s Journey instalment, I did so embracing the fact it was a town I visited fairly infrequently. Belper, however, was a little different.

I don’t know how many times I’ve passed through Belper along the A6, but it will be well into the thousands.

But Belper, of course, isn’t a through road – it’s a town. And a marvellous one at that.

Just how well did I know Belper I asked myself as I drove along Matlock Road, over the bridge and that familiar, imposing view of Strutt’s North Mill appearing on my right.

Wonderful Belper Photo: Ashley Franklin The answer, I would soon realise, was not nearly as well as I thought I did.

As luck would have it, just a day before my visit I had received an email from a Tanya Spilsbury, encouragingly entitled ‘Belper visit’.

Tanya explained that she’d recently refurbished the old library in Belper and had witnessed first-hand the thriving business and cultural community that exists in the town. Aside from this, she’s also a member of the Derbyshire Historic Buildings Trust.

And so, it was a delight to pull up on Bridge Street on a bitterly cold and frosty morning to make a rendezvous with her my first port of call.

She suggested we head to Dot-teas Emporium for a hot drink and I was only too happy to go along with her recommendation.

Inside, Dot-teas Emporium felt like a microcosm of what I imagined the Belper community to be.

It was bustling, with many people enjoying a drink, bite to eat and a chat.

Tanya (left) had suggested Dot-tea’s Emporium for a drink and it was a fantastic introduction to life in the town (Image: Nathan Fearn)

A friendly community Police officer chatted with Dottie, the establishment’s welcoming owner, a yoga group sat chatting after the conclusion of their morning class and guests browsed the quirky bookshelves, choc-a-block with an array of literary delights.

I spend a good half hour with Tanya chatting about the town.

‘There’s a thriving business community here which is very much independent-minded and the town in general has that feel. It reminds me a little of Wirksworth in that respect,’ she tells me.

‘Love Belper (a community organisation run by volunteers passionate about raising the profile of the town) has also been brilliant in keeping the high street going.’

I make the point that there must be many, like me, who drive through Belper regularly and miss much of what the town has to offer and she tells me of a number of plans being discussed to create circular routes, such as those being worked on by the Derwent Valley Trust, which will provide walking and cycling routes away from the A6, allowing locals and visitors to take in the town and all its gifts.

It strikes me Belper is a perfect base for visitors. You have the history and independent feel of the town and so many delights within easy distance.

‘I think the connectivity in Belper is so strong,’ says Tanya. ‘You’ve got the A38 close by, the train station, regular buses – it’s a great location.’

I wonder out loud whether Belper has the perfect mix of heritage and here-and-now community spirit.

‘People love a bit of history but equally they don’t want to feel like they’re living in a museum,’ remarks Tanya in response.

‘A quote I like is “the present is the future’s history” and you have to keep that in mind.’

After saying my goodbyes to Tanya I head south along the familiar Bridge Street.

The fun and somewhat liberating element of this monthly feature is that I have absolutely zero plan as to where I go and what I see – it’s a purely serendipitous stroll around each town.

I was fully expecting to find lots I didn’t know about Belper, but I was also surprised to notice things along the very road I had driven through so many times – the power of slowing things right down.

For example, along Bridge Street I noticed a green plaque on a three-storey property which read ‘Fireman No.7’, which I found intriguing. Where had firemen one to six lived and/or what was so special about fireman number seven?

A little further down I saw ‘Savings Bank’ engraved on one of the stone buildings. I’d never thought anything of this building before but, armed with this context, it became obvious this used to be a bank.

These are, of course, far from earth-shattering discoveries, yet there’s something quite fulfilling about uncovering little details that had previously passed me by.

Making my way further along Bridge Street and then left up King Street I got more glimpses of the traditional, independent feel that would define my visit.

Jerry Howarth home cured ham and bacon; Nordicana Homewares; The Corn Exchange; Oh So Sweet with their traditional confectionary delights; Gummers of King Street serving fruit and veg; Nourish 44 café, bar and bistro with the words ‘Proud to be independent’ above the door; G.O. Cooper Ltd beef and pork butchers – which was particularly busy. The list goes on.

Nourish 44, one of a whole host of flourishing independents Photo: Ashley Franklin

Halfway up King Street I turn right onto Strutt Street, the independent feel continuing – Strutt Clothes wear looks particularly inviting.

At the top of King Street it strikes me that I have never been here before. I look down and see this bustling street below me, set against a backdrop of breathtaking countryside, and it’s easy to see why Belper was crowned Best High Street in England at the 2019 Great British High Street awards – making it the only town in the country to win the award twice.

I stumble across the Ritz cinema – another independent – which I’ve heard so much about but never been to, although I have visited its sister establishment, Northern Lights Cinema in Wirksworth, a few times.

The Memorial Gardens are poignant. I am drawn to a pair of plaques which proudly state some of the town’s many awards, and then a large wooden sheep display which has been filled with beautiful illustrated messages, presumably from children, and I take time to read them.

‘Local is good’; ‘Love in Belper’; ‘Community’; ‘Bring the sunshine’; ‘Kindness’; ‘Be happy, stay happy’ are just a few that catch my eye.

I then find myself at the Market Place. No market on this particular day, but I can imagine it to be a hive of activity on days that there is.

Church Lane takes me to the grounds of St Peter’s Church. This church was awarded a Gold Eco Church Award in October in recognition of its efforts to care for God’s earth and I immediately see evidence of this ethos as I stumble across a delightful little community growing patch with an equally delightful sign, which reads:

St Peter’s Community Garden, Belper (Image: Nathan Fearn)

‘St Peter’s Community Garden. Food to share. Please pick fruit and veg when ripe, pull out the weeds and water when needed.’

I continue on until I arrive at Mill Street. The pavement turns to cobbles and there’s almost a Cornish feeling as the sunshine on this bitterly cold day dances off the bright white houses, the street narrowing before opening back up to reveal a steady downward path which, I assume, will lead me back to the A6.

Next I reach Long Row and this is my favourite part of my exploration. The rows of houses on each side are so distinctive as mill houses and there’s much beauty in their uniformity.

There’s a board which provides information on the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site that Belper sits in, as well as facts about Belper’s famous sons. Unfortunately, it’s completely frozen over and I can’t read it!

I pass Jedediah Cottage and other such names which make it crystal clear the famous East Mill is close by and, before I know it, there it is. A train rushes through below and there’s the sound of school children playing. It all feels rather lovely.

Then, just like that, I go from something completely new to the very familiar sight of The Triangle at the northern entrance to the town.

Rows of houses once used by mill workers (Image: Nathan Fearn)

It wasn’t my intention to visit the River Gardens but I find myself here through chance. It’s also incredible to see the mill close up; you gain a totally new perspective on this iconic landmark.

The water in the ponds is completely frozen over and a man feeds a multitude of pigeons until a sudden movement sees them bolt in unison for the clear blue sky.

I can hear music and notice a man playing his guitar at the bandstand, he’s being recorded by his partner. Their child watches on, snuggled up cosily in their buggy.

I’m keen to discover what they’re recording his performance for but don’t want to intrude. I also wonder how he can play in this weather – his hands must be freezing!

Back along Bridge Street I head to the car, quite impressed with myself that I’ve managed to inadvertently take a perfectly circular route which has opened up everything about Belper I hoped it might.

As I drive away I ask myself a simple question – has my perception of Belper changed today? The answer is yes.

I know the next time I drive through I’ll be in no doubt there’s more to this town and community than meets the eye.

And coming to that realisation is very much what this series of discovery is all about.

Next stop, Buxton…