My usual vantage point of Bolsover Castle and its walls, which seem to sprawl across the landscape, comes courtesy of the quickest of glances as I travel up or down the M1.
Whether northbound or southbound, the castle always feels some distance away when driving along the motorway, so it was a very different perspective to see it come magnificently into view – appearing closer and closer as I made my way towards the town via the A632.
It really is impressive how the imposing centuries-old walls flank your journey into Bolsover, well at least they did from the side of the town I approached.
A pretty and imaginative way to dress a disused phonebox (Image: Nathan Fearn) Having arrived in Bolsover, I do my usual trick on these monthly editor journeys and look for the first carpark I stumble across, rather than planning where to park. I know, life on the wild side.
It doesn’t take me long to see a parking sign and I pull up at Town End. Here, I come across my first of many pleasant Bolsover surprises.
Searching unsuccessfully for a parking machine, I turn to my phone for guidance on the matter and am informed that car parking is free throughout the district in council-run car parks ‘for the benefit of residents and visitors.’
Walking past Cavendish Walk Retail Park I find myself ignoring the Market Place across the road for the time being.
Perhaps, subconsciously, this is because it would expose me to the wonderful and tempting smells of the Alpha Gyros Greek food cart which is stationed there, directly across from the impressive Mock-Tudor building which serves as the Cavendish Hotel.
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I notice Blossom and Swan, a cute-looking shop, sadly not open when I visit, and note the sign on the door which reads: ‘Small local makers’.
Taking a left at the end of the road, I find myself on leafy Oxcroft Lane. On one side are terraced housed and on my side is a long row of tall trees which offer welcome respite from the afternoon heat.
Having inadvertently done a loop and finding myself pretty much back to where I began, I cross over the road and head up Cotton Street (and past a lovely looking shop called Robins Return, selling gifts), ending up at the Town Square.
Opposite me is the Post Office, to the right, Bolsover Library. As I scan my surroundings, I surmise that there’s much to admire in this part of the town which is, at least while I am there, quiet with an almost peaceful feel to it.
The wide open purpose-built (by the looks of it) communal space is impressive but I am mainly drawn to the buildings and the various plaques dotted around the place.
The stone building with the carving above its doors stating ‘Bolsover Urban District Council 1941’ initially commands the most attention, but I am equally fascinated by a curious and diminutive row of houses opposite.
Like a moth to a flame, the presence of a blue plaque on the side of these houses has me off my seat and inspecting it almost immediately.
‘15-19 Cotton Street’ it reads. ‘The origin of these cottages is late 17th century although they were probably remodelled with sash windows in 1762. These properties are typical of pre industrial Bolsover when the town was a warren of such buildings. See inscribed date stone above doors.’
Onto Church Street next for my obligatory seeking out of a town church. In the process, I pass the rather handsome looking Church Farm House. I don’t know its history but the fact it was repaired with grant aid from Derbyshire County Council suggests it is – or at least was – a building of some local importance.
Curiously, and somewhat counterintuitively, the noise level increases as I get closer to St Mary and St Laurence, the sound of traffic emanating from nearby Hornscroft Road.
It’s closed on the Monday I am browsing around but posters in the church grounds point to a thriving community, one reading: ‘Coffee and More – 1st Friday of the month. Bolsover Parish Rooms, 10-1. In aid of Bolsover Parish Church organ restoration fund.’
Up Cotton Street once more and onto High Street, the church spire still just about making its presence felt above trees and buildings, and the Blue Bell pub leads me to an early conclusion of Bolsover.
As I explore this fascinating place, I can’t shake the feeling that Bolsover isn’t a Bakewell, or a Melbourne or any number of towns I have visited so far in this series that seem to just hit you with charm and beautiful aesthetics when you get there. You feel like you know where you stand with these places.
Bolsover just feels a little different. It’s not as overtly showy. Almost like it’s happy to embrace you, to give up all its quirks and abundant heritage that is so famed, but you’ll have to work for it – and work in a good way.
Some way down I am met with a rather large information board which informs me that I am about to look out over panoramic views across the Vale of Scarsdale which, in 1200, was a forest enclosure used as a hunting park.
I have to remind myself that just moments before I was stood on High Street and now, I am facing a breath-taking visa showing parkland as far as the eye can see that has remained largely unaltered for centuries.
I walk down a few flights of steps and find myself in a clearing which provides pure joy. Birds singing, rays of sunlight piercing through the trees – a real oasis of calm and an unspoiled treasure. Nature at its best.
Further along and the trees which obscured much of the view before now give way and the landscape really opens up. It’s a sight to behold.
I come across a curious stone building and am immediately intrigued. Its location seems strange. What on earth was/is it and what was it used for?
Fortunately, I find my answer less than a minute later, courtesy of another information board which informs me I am now at Bolsover Back Hills.
The building, incidentally, is a conduit house, which are ‘small stone buildings built over well heads which were connected together by a “Conduit” (pipe) to help supply water for the castle and town.’
I head back to High Street, feeling all the better for my scenic detour, and drop down onto Castle Street and to the Market Place.
The cenotaph, which takes pride of place close by, looks immaculate in the sunshine and there are a number of inviting-looking establishments within a stone’s throw of each other – Sanctuary Inn, Casa Fresco and The Pump being three of them.
I spot that there is indeed a pump outside the latter and a blue plaque (this really is the town for blue plaques, and I’m all for it) on the premises tells me it was erected in 2002 on the site of the original town pump, before being restored in 2014.
Past a grand mock-Tudor building which has seen better days I go. The former home of Bolsover Antiques Centre, now sadly closed down, and the building seemingly unoccupied.
And then, there it is. Bolsover Castle. A wonderful site. Unfortunately, I don’t have time to do a specific visit to the castle justice, that will have to wait for another day.
I do spot a group of people playing what appears to be croquet on the lawns just outside the castle itself, playing in brilliant sunshine against a backdrop of stunning landscapes and under the shade of this famous structure – a lovely sight.
As I make my way back to the car – congratulating myself once again for managed to walk past Alpha Gyros without caving – I assemble my thoughts.
Bolsover is a remarkable little market town and I have thoroughly enjoyed my time here. It may not get the same attention as some of Derbyshire’s more touristy towns but it’s amazing how much there is to explore here, what gifts lie on its doorstep and just how proud the people of Bolsover clearly are in their town.
Do we talk about Bolsover and all its undoubted qualities enough? Maybe we don’t.
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