Buenos Aires: An Insider’s Guide

Buenos Aires, the vibrant capital of Argentina, is a city of superlatives and striking contrasts. Its towering urban canyons and bustling traffic blend seamlessly with the melancholic rhythms of tango and the charmingly old-fashioned manners of its people. The spirit of this port city mirrors the intricate, dynamic compositions of Astor Piazzolla—unconventional and full of flair.

It is renowned for being the birthplace of tango, Pope Francis, and the legendary Diego Maradona. No description of Buenos Aires would be complete without mentioning its fiery soccer obsession, which few other cities can match, even in the soccer-crazy continent of South America!

Tobias’s Top Things to Do in Buenos Aires

Admire its Fabulous Architecture

Many of the city’s most beautiful buildings and monuments were built during the period when Argentina was one of the wealthiest countries in the world. There is the imposing Congreso de la Nación (Congress Building), and right next to it you will find the elegant Confitería del Molino. This is a superb example of an Art Nouveau building with a tower, elaborate stained glass windows and the eponymous windmill wings.

If you stroll just 500 meters down the Avenida de Mayo towards the Casa Rosada, you will reach the eclectic-style Palacio Barolo, which is conceptually inspired by Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy. Other lesser-known magnificent buildings in the center are the Edificio Otto Wulff, “supported” by stoic atlases, the Centro Naval, the Gothic Facultad de Ingeniería and the pumping station (Palacio de Aguas Corrientes), which is decorated with 300,000 terracotta tiles! If you are a book lover, you must visit the El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop, which is housed in a former theater dating from 1919.

After admiring the Argentine National Library, head over to the famous Cementerio de la Recoleta. It is regarded as one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world, and is the final resting place of figures such as Eva Perón, former presidents, Nobel Prize winners and senior military officers. Just opposite the cemetery, in front of the famous Café La Biela, is a historic rubber tree (Gomero de la Recoleta), which is said to have been planted in 1781!

You can combine your visit to the cemetery with a walk or bike ride in the city’s green spaces. Between the Parque Rosedal and the Japanese Garden, you will come across landmarks such as the planetarium and Floralis Genérica, an interesting kinetic flower sculpture.

Tango and Theater

Witnessing an opera or ballet performance at the Teatro Colón, one of the most beautiful opera houses in the world, is a truly enchanting experience. Just two streets away, you will find Avenida Corrientes, which is also known as the “Broadway of Buenos Aires”, and is lined with numerous theaters and cinemas. Take a stroll along the “street that never sleeps” in the evening and let yourself be carried away by the vibrant atmosphere of your surroundings.

If you want to experience Argentina’s iconic tango culture like a local, you can step into one of the city’s many dance halls. There is El Beso, which has daily afternoon and evening milongas (dance events), and Salón Marabu, a 70-year old establishment. If you feel like dancing but don’t have a partner, La Catedral has professional dancers that can accompany you! The lively Café de los Angelitos features tango performances, and there is also the very rustic El Boliche de Roberto.

Stroll through San Telmo and La Boca

The colorful neighborhoods of La Boca and San Telmo are also worth a visit. La Boca was once inhabited by sailors and dock workers. Today, the area is famous for its brightly painted houses, and for being the home of the popular Boca Juniors soccer team. While here, it is advisable to avoid the side streets and instead stick to the touristy parts of the area – the Caminito, a vibrant pedestrian street,  the Fundación Proa (centre for contemporary art) and the Bombonera (the Boca Juniors soccer stadium).

A tango bar in Camanito

La Boca neighborhood

If you decide to buy a souvenir during your exploration, make sure to ask about the price before expressing that you want to buy it. This advice is especially relevant in antiques markets such as the Feria de San Telmo.

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Unusual Excursions

If you feel like going off the tourist trail, here are some interesting experiences you can try!

Day trip to the Tigre Delta

This is a popular recreational area with dense vegetation and countless islands that can be explored by boat. While here, you can even cross the Río de la Plata by ferry and travel to Colonia del Sacramento, a tranquil town in southern Uruguay!

Discover Luján

Luján is a pilgrimage site located to the west of Buenos Aires, and is known for its neo-Gothic twin-tower basilica. One of the city’s more unusual attractions is Terra Santa, a Christian theme park, where Christ’s life is recreated through daily re-enactments of the crucifixion and resurrection.

A slice of the pampas

For a short excursion within the city center, a biking or hiking tour through the 350-hectare Reserva Ecológica is highly recommended. The vegetation of this wetland biotope is comparable to the pampas region, and rests on the rubble of what was once a bustling leisure hotspot in the 1930s. Pro tip: Remember to bring your hats and sunscreen, because there is very little shade here.

Tobias’s Top Culinary Experiences

A Cup of History

Buenos Aires is known for its deep-rooted coffee culture. Go back in time as you step into one of the city’s old coffee houses, with their hand-painted signs, wood-paneled counters, antique chandeliers, and yellowing photographs. Enjoy a cup of café con leche y medialuna (coffee with milk and croissant) in the majestic Confitería La Ideal, the traditional Los Galgos or the tiny La Poesía.

If you are near  Avenida Corrientes, you can try he freshly ground coffee of Café El Gato Negro. The working-class district of Boedo is also home to several quaint establishments such as Café Margot.

Snacks and Sweet Treats

 If you crave something refreshing (and sweet) during your wanderings, stopping by an ice cream shop like Rapanui or Scannapieco for a Helado de Dulce de Leche is highly recommended. This milk caramel-based  ice cream is an undisputed classic among Argentinians. The Sicilian pistachio ice cream at Cadore is also delicious!

For masterfully mixed cocktails and sophisticated snacks, you can head for Milión. This beautifully restored villa with its romantic courtyard is an oasis of calm, especially on warm summer evenings. The Florería Atlántico, located behind the refrigerator door of a flower shop in the Retiro district, is another atmospheric bar offering a selection of unusual cocktails.

Pizzas and Grills

Argentina’s cuisine has been significantly influenced by Italian and Spanish migrants who arrived in large numbers during the late 19th century. However, Argentinian pizza is very different from the original Italian recipe, in that it is fluffier and contains a lot more cheese! You can enjoy a slice of mozzarella pizza in traditional eateries such as El Cuartito or at the gigantic Pizzería Güerrín.

Patagonian lamb, Argentina

Argentinian-style pizza

Colectivos: A Great Way to See Buenos Aires

If you want to experience Buenos Aires like a porteño, why not travel like one? However, before you board a bus, you will need a Tarjeta SUBE, the contactless payment card for local public transport. These blue plastic cards can be purchased at subway station ticket counters or from lottery vendors (Lotería de la Ciudad). You can also top up your balance there. A bus journey usually costs the about 0.42 US dollars.

Bus route number 29 is ideal for tourists, as it passes landmarks such as Caminito, the Casa Rosada, the Obelisk, the Teatro Colón and the Barrio Chino. Join the queue at the bus stop, and get on through the front door of the bus. Tell the driver your approximate destination, hold the card up to the electronic reader and off you go!

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