Dining at The Saracen’s Head in Shirley in Derbyshire

The village of Shirley, situated just outside Ashbourne, is a fine example of one of the many charming parts of our county.

It can also claim a rare honour amongst history buffs; it is mentioned in the famous Domesday Book, William the Conqueror’s great survey of his lands, created in 1086 shortly before his death.

This interesting fact was brought to my attention whilst dining at The Saracen’s Head, the village’s picturesque, classic country pub – displayed on shelves were limited edition bottles of ‘Shirley Ale’, brewed in 1986 to commemorate the Book’s 900th anniversary, and still unopened to this day.

The fillet of cod was cooked perfectly Photo: James Dowse This link to the history, tradition and vitality of the local pub is an example of the kind of touch The Saracen’s Head is clearly striving to achieve with its food, with a focus on quality ingredients lovingly wrought into well-loved, favourite dishes.

Head Chef James Hassall has extolled his belief in this approach in these pages previously during his time at Horsley Lodge, so readers may already be familiar with his work.

The menu exhibits something for all tastes, such as classic steak and ale pie, battered haddock, steaks and burgers, but here and there are scattered some dishes for those wanting something a little different, and our chosen starters perfectly proved the point.

Black pudding with hen’s egg topping Photo: James Dowse Black pudding with hen’s egg crumbled perfectly the way it should, offering up a slight spice to go with the chunky savouriness, and the thoughtful addition of a light peppercorn sauce elevated this British delicacy above the ordinary.

Meanwhile, the pulled lamb melted in the mouth, served on caramelised onion loaf with a tangy mint salsa that provided a hint of spice as well as the herby flavour of that usual companion to lamb.

Fish was very much the order of the day for our main courses. A generous, thick fillet of cod flaked perfectly under pressure from knife and fork, while the caviar and cockle stew which surrounded it enhanced the dish further.

The salmon Wellington was a delight Photo: James Dowse Additional layers of bite and texture were provided with samphire and a delicious helping of dauphinoise potatoes.

The filo pastry shell of the salmon wellington cracked invitingly to reveal chunks of succulent fish bound by a prawn and parsley stuffing, adding a slight zing to the flavour profile, and a silky, rich Chardonnay sauce really made this dish something special.

A large, golden chunk of creamy fondant potato was also a welcome addition. This was good, heart-warmingly satisfying food well done.

For those of us with a sweet tooth (your reviewer very much included) the dessert selection did not disappoint. A scoop of luxurious vanilla ice cream perched in gravity defying fashion atop a crumbly traditional Bakewell pudding, dusted with shards of soured cherry and icing sugar. An exemplar of why this treat is famous throughout the land.

The treacle gingerbread loaf is one to rave about Photo: James Dowse The treacle gingerbread loaf, however, was so good I’ve found myself singing its praises ever since; moist, slightly spicy yet so light one may wonder how it remains fixed to the plate. It was paired with a tonka bean custard which was vanilla-like and ever so slightly nutty and served separately, to be drizzled or poured as one wishes, yet whoever manages to resist decanting the whole lot upon the first taste deserves all plaudits.

The Saracen’s Head also offers a lengthy wine list not usually noted in country pubs, several hand-pulled beers to satisfy real ale lovers, and a comfortable, relaxing atmosphere to match the food and drink on offer.

The décor is cozy, with soft-furnished banquettes adorned with cushions, nods to the rural location and local history and a bright, spacious dining area.

Drinkers and diners were equally welcome on our visit, and the pub appears as much of a focal point to the village as it has long been.

As the good weather (hopefully) approaches, it’s well worth the trip into this delightful part of Derbyshire for an experience which is sure to be enjoyed.